Three shots, about a minute, and your photos become evidence instead of a snapshot. Four more minutes and they become a case file.
Most people photograph what catches their eye. A camera on a pole against a blue sky makes a striking picture and proves almost nothing — you can't tell from it where the device is, which way it looks, who made it, or whether it's one device or two. Forensic photography is a different job. You're not making a picture of the thing; you're making a record that someone who wasn't there can reason from.
Everything below comes from real mistakes made on real submissions, including ours.
If you do nothing else, do these. They take about a minute, and between them they settle how many devices are here, where exactly, and what they are. Those three facts cannot be recovered once you have walked away. The fourth — what the camera actually looks at — is the one we can partly reconstruct afterwards, which is why it is the one to drop if you are short on time.
Take all three per device, and stand still while you do: your phone records a compass bearing with every shot, and at a site with two identical cameras those bearings are the only thing that tells them apart.
The three examples below are the same pole in Fort Worth, photographed on one stop.
From 30–50 feet back, take a photo that shows the pole in its setting — the road, the entrance, the building it watches. If there is more than one device here, get all of them into this single frame, even if they end up small. At a multi-device site this is the most valuable photo you can take, and it is the one almost nobody takes.
Walk to the base of the pole and take one photo looking up. This is your best GPS fix of the whole set, because your phone is now within a few feet of the device itself.
Get as close as you can on foot, then use your phone's telephoto lens. You want the housing to fill most of the frame.
Three good photos beat none. Send them and stop there if that is all you have. If you can spare another four minutes, the full set below adds the model marking, who installed it, and what it actually covers — the difference between a device we can map and a device we can write up.
Work backwards from these and the rest of the shot list writes itself.
Seven shots, about four minutes. The first three are the quick three you have already taken — carry on from shot 4. Take the whole list per device. If there are two poles, do it twice, and send each device as its own submission.
Wide, from 30–50 feet back, with every device at the site in the same frame.
Straight up from the pole base — your best location fix of the set.
Telephoto, housing filling the frame, close enough to read a logo.
Take a second close-up from a slightly different angle so light rakes across the logo instead of coming from behind it. Manufacturer marks are usually embossed in the same colour as the housing — they only appear when light hits them sideways.
Bracket, band clamps, cable entry, solar panel, any junction box. Installation hardware often carries a tag or sticker the camera doesn't, and it tells you who put it there.
Stand under the device and photograph in the direction it faces. This one shot converts "there is a camera" into "this camera covers this approach."
Permit stickers, asset tags, ownership plates, ground cabinets. This is frequently the only place an agency or vendor name appears in plain text.
Your phone records a compass bearing with every photo. Those bearings are how two identical cameras get told apart later. Shoot one device from one spot, then walk. Drifting between shots scrambles the only signal that separates them.
The brightest thing in frame becomes the sky and your device becomes a silhouette. Move a few steps so a building or trees sit behind it, or come back when the sun is lower.
Past your phone's real telephoto lens, zoom is just software guessing. Ten feet closer beats 5× every time.
Screenshots contain no location data at all. Most messaging apps strip it out too. Submit the original file from your camera roll.
If your phone didn't record a location, adding one later in Photos looks like a real GPS fix but isn't — and it's detectable. Tell us where you were instead. An honest note beats a confident wrong coordinate. Watch for this one: phones silently suspend Location Services when they overheat, which is easy to do standing in a parking lot in August.
Where you can, keep faces, license plates, and house numbers out of the shot — a step to the side or a slightly different angle usually does it. Where you can't, take the photo anyway. A parked car in the background doesn't make a submission useless; it just means someone reviews and blurs it before anything is published. Getting the device right matters more.
If something sensitive is unavoidable — say the camera is aimed straight at a house — mention it when you submit so it gets flagged early.
Photograph from public sidewalks, streets, and rights-of-way. Don't enter private property, climb, touch, obstruct, or open anything. You may be approached and asked what you're doing — you're taking pictures in public, you can say so plainly, and you can leave. If you feel unsafe, leave first and come back another day. Local rules vary, so use your judgment about your own situation.